West Indian Day, and where to eat when the party’s over

August 25th, 2008

Carnival 2004

Photo by ntang on Flickr; provided under Creative Commons at-sa license.

Once again, Seth Kugel supplies my post via his Weekend in New York column in Sunday’s Times. Next weekend is Brooklyn’s West Indian American Day Carnival, one of the city’s biggest cultural parties, and Kugel offers a great guide to Caribbean food in New York, especially on Nostrand and Flatbush avenues in Prospect Lefferts Gardens, east of Prospect Park.

This year’s carnival theme is “One Caribbean, Many Cultures.” The concerts, on the grounds of the Brooklyn Museum, begin Thursday, Aug. 28, with Ladies’ Night. Kids’ events, the steel band competition, and lots more music, dance, and food will be on the bill Friday through Sunday. The parade, from 11 am to 6 pm Monday, Sept. 1, runs up Eastern Parkway from Rochester Avenue to Grand Army Plaza. Listen to WWRL (1600 AM) for more information (and music).

Sunday festivals

August 22nd, 2008

The New York Turkish Festival runs from 10 am to 9 pm Sunday (August 24) at Fifth Ave and 97th St (at Central Park). It includes folk music and dance from noon to 9 (with Turkish oil wrestling at 4 pm), and there’s also a children’s stage and exhibits of art and culture. A lot of work and organization obviously went into this; follow the link for lots of info and pictures.

The Pakistan Day Festival, from 1 to 6 pm Sunday, extends from 23rd to 26th streets on Madison Ave. It’s apparently the source of no small controversy, but I have no firsthand information. Considering the upheaval in Pakistan right now, who knows what the mood will be?

What are you asking?

August 21st, 2008

The Times had a story by Sam Roberts Sunday about racial distinctions among the changing U.S. population, particularly Hispanics who can check the box for “black” or “white” (or “mixed”). Roberts discusses how the definition of “white” has changed over the years.

As far as the census goes, this is a matter of self-identification. My boyfriend’s ancestors, for example, all came from Mexico to the United States. But he didn’t grow up speaking Spanish, and he has always thought of himself as white. (I consider him Californian.) Another friend of mine has a Dominican background, and once, when we were on the subject of race, I just asked him: “Are you black?” “I’m not white,” he answered.

I’m white. There’s no getting around it. My ancestors are German, and a little English. I’m pale. Yet Roberts reports that “Benjamin Franklin feared that his fellow white Pennsylvanians would be overwhelmed by swarthy Germans.” (Which, I believe, pretty much happened in Pennsylvania, and some of these were my ancestors.) But he also feared that his people would lose their language and government, and that didn’t happen; today Pennsylvanians of German background are sturdy English-speaking middle Americans.

So what’s with Hispanic? The U.S. government definition, Roberts says, cites origins in “Mexico, Puerto Rico, Cuba, Spanish-speaking Central and South America[n] countries and other Spanish cultures.” Does that include Spain? If so, what’s the difference between Spain and France or Italy? If not, why is “Spanish-speaking” so important? What makes Argentine culture, which is overwhelmingly nonindigenous, fall into the same category as Bolivian culture, while Brazilians, speaking Portuguese, are Other? What about Central and South Americans who speak Nahuatl and not Spanish at all? What is the point—aside from political advantage or disadvantage—of having the category “Hispanic” at all? Well, I suppose I’ve answered my own question.

What it comes down to is this: When people want to know whether you’re white, what is it they really want to know? What is the answer going to tell them? Isn’t the question “Are you one of us?” whether asked by someone white or nonwhite?

I realize that we can’t just declare a postracial world, but I wish every one of us—at least in America, land of the mongrel—could look far ahead and think of ourselves as contributors to a great mixed race of the future, when intermarriage will leave us all as confused and silly as Dr. Seuss’s sneetches. We don’t have to give up our own culture. We just won’t be able to hoard it.

If you love New York, see this movie

August 18th, 2008

City scribe Pete Hamill will join director Dawn Scibilia for a screening of her movie Home at 6:30 pm Thursday, August 21, at the Lower East Side Tenement Museum, 108 Orchard St. Hamill, who will participate in a Q&A after the film, is one of the New Yorkers interviewed in this poetic documentary about the sense of home this city has given to so many.

It’s free! But RSVP at events@tenement.org; (212) 431-0233.

Indian parade

August 15th, 2008

India’s Independence Day will be celebrated from 11 am to 6 pm Sunday, August 17, with a parade on Madison Avenue from 41st to 23rd Streets. According to Rediff India Abroad, the actress Deepika Padukone (Om Shanti Om) will lead the parade, and it will include a variety show at 23rd.

Junta Hispana

August 13th, 2008

This weekend’s activity in Flushing Meadows–Corona Park (from 11 am to 6 pm Sunday, August 17) is Junta Hispana, a “festival to educate community on health issues and the uniqueness and beauty of each country. Includes cultural music and dance performances,” according to the parks department website. That’s all the info I find, so it may be kind of thrown together. It’ll be at Festival Square in the park; call (718) 760-6565 for more info.

The Moore family at 97 Orchard

August 10th, 2008

First of all, you had to take the back stairs into the privy yard to use the privy—one of four to six outhouses. You also had to come down to this yard to get water for any purpose at all; it had the only spigot serving the building. On the first floor, next to the yard, was Schneider’s Saloon. If it was at all like New York bars today, you might not always be in the mood for its company.

But that’s how it was in 1869 at 97 Orchard Street, and these conditions were more generous than the law mandated—the sewer was even flushed (into the East River) once a week.

My group is standing in the back yard of the Lower East Side Tenement Museum. This is the new Irish family tour that the museum debuted on June 17. Our guide, Ya Yun Teng, takes us up the back stairs to the fourth floor and, first, into a “ruin” apartment. (The building was shuttered in 1935 and left untouched until the tenement museum took it over in 1988.)

In an interior window—a law passed in 1901 specified that each room must have a window, but only one room in an apartment actually opened to the outdoors—we watch slides while we listen to period songs that give a flavor of life for immigrants at the time, such as “Thousands Are Sailing,” which goes along with the “American wake” they’d throw in Ireland the night before a family left for the States, probably never to return.

Next we proceed into the new family apartment, set up to show the living experience of Joseph and Bridget Moore and their three daughters (Mary, 4, Jane, 3, and baby Agnes), who lived somewhere in the building in 1869. The afternoon light is dim; they would have had to rely on kerosene lamps. The bed takes up about half the bedroom, in the back; the rest of the room is crowded with linens and trunks.

The kitchen table, in the middle room, is spread with bread, potatoes, onions, and ceramic bottles of beer. The kitchen also holds the washbasin and a clothesline, with stockings and tiny girls’ dresses, by the large coal stove. It’s a hot day, and it’s easy to imagine how smoky and close it must have been, especially if you were wearing a long skirt.

Imagine trying to take care of two toddlers and a baby in that space.

Then there’s the central issue of the milk, which you’d have to buy every day—there’s no refrigerator. It was often contaminated; this was probably the cause of baby Agnes’s scrofula and malnutrition. She was sick pretty much from birth, and she died in the apartment before she was six months old.

Her funeral vigil is arranged in the front room, with a circle of chairs. This parlor is much lighter (having a true window) and not as cramped. The space and its careful decor seem to represent the family’s aspirations, yet now it’s a scene of sorrow. Our guide turns on a recording of a woman keening a song of mourning.

The plain white wooden coffin sits on a cloth-covered table. A rosary lies on top of it. It’s so very small, almost as tall as it is long.

The apartment at 97 Orchard was a step up for the Moores from their previous place in Five Points. But they weren’t able to stay long, less than a year. They moved from here to 224 Elizabeth Street, which the New York Times described as an “area of destitution.” Bridget gave birth to five more daughters, only two of whom survived.

Their grim story was a common one. Poor and often unwelcome, the Irish (among others) had to struggle hard in this city, and some of them didn’t make it.

Eventually, though, things got better; the tour continues in the apartment next door where the Katz family lived in the 1920s and ’30s. Milk got pasteurized. Disease became less mysterious, and hygiene bloomed. Gaslight and indoor plumbing arrived.

End of tour. Now you can check your cellphones and complain that you just had to spend an hour without air conditioning.

Questions? Take the tour yourself and learn much more! You can also see how they put it together on the museum’s Flickr page.

Today! Stories from Ellis Island

August 8th, 2008

With Nothing But a Dream: Stories from Ellis Island is an Origins Project from the City Lights Youth Theater, being presented at noon and 2 pm Friday and Saturday, August 8–9, at Ellis Island. The play, written by theater members and playwright Dana Leslie Goldstein, is set in 1918 and based on the stories of actual immigrants to Ellis Island. You can read more about the production in the short Times story.

The show is free; call (212) 262-0200 for reservations. For schedule and fare information on ferry service to the island, visit statuecruises.com or call (877) 523-9849.